How to Build a Living Fence in Australia
From Boundary to Biodiversity: How to Design a Living Fence
Lately, I’ve been pondering the idea of boundaries here on our patch and even in our suburban spaces. We all need to define areas, create privacy, or offer shelter, but the usual fences… well, they can be a bit stark, not to mention expensive! And the moment you try to soften them with some greenery, you’re often setting them up for a shorter lifespan. Damp timber, rusty wire – it’s a frustrating cycle.
That got me thinking: isn’t there a more natural, long-term way to create these boundaries? Something that not only marks a space but actually lives, offering a whole host of other benefits along the way? That’s when I really started digging into the concept of living fences, or as an insightful old permaculture article I stumbled upon calls them, "live wattle fences." I fell in love with them when I lived in Scotland but never really found the right resources to understand how to design and build them in the Australian context.
This article, penned by Kurt Herran (Permaculture Journal No. 7) in the early to mid-20th century, is a treasure trove of timeless wisdom. The fundamental idea – training young trees and shrubs to intergrow and fuse into a living barrier – is pure brilliance. It’s not just a static fence; it’s a dynamic, breathing structure that evolves and strengthens over time.
Now, Herran’s original focus was on European conditions, so my recent quest has been to figure out how we can take this fantastic technique and adapt it to our unique Western Australian environment. What incredible native plants can we harness? How can we tailor this for everything from a robust windbreak battling the Fremantle Doctor to a lush, private screen in a backyard in Bassendean?
Let’s roll up our sleeves and explore the fascinating world of creating living fences right here in our beautiful corner of Australia.
More Than Just a Boundary: The Multifaceted Benefits of Living Fences
Forget those lifeless barriers. A living fence offers a wealth of advantages:
Year-Round Privacy and Security: Just like a conventional fence, but with the added bonus of dense foliage providing natural, year-round screening.
Low Maintenance (Once Established): Say goodbye to endless painting, oiling, or replacing decaying materials. Nature handles the long-term upkeep.
Aesthetically Pleasing: A vibrant green wall is far more attractive than timber or wire, seamlessly integrating into your landscape.
Wildlife Habitat: Many of our native critters will appreciate the shelter and potential food sources a living fence provides.
Windbreaks and Erosion Control: A dense living fence can effectively slow down strong winds, protecting your gardens and buildings. The intricate root systems also bind the soil, preventing precious topsoil from being washed or blown away.
Noise Reduction: A thick, established hedge can help to absorb some of the noise pollution, creating a more peaceful environment.
Increased Property Value: A well-designed and thriving living fence can be a significant asset to your property's appeal and value.
Carbon Sequestration: Living plants are natural carbon sinks, absorbing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and contributing to a healthier planet.
Long Lifespan: Unlike fences made of inert materials, a living fence can last for generations, becoming stronger and more established with each passing year.
Adaptability: As we’ll explore, you have incredible flexibility in choosing plant species and weaving techniques to suit a wide array of needs and spaces.
The Core Principle: Growing Together as One
The magic behind a living fence is the simple yet profound principle of training young plants to fuse together. Here’s the breakdown:
Planting: Young, healthy trees or shrubs are planted at relatively close intervals along your desired boundary line.
Weaving: As the branches grow and become pliable, they are carefully interwoven with the branches of their neighbouring plants, creating a lattice-like structure.
Securing: The points where branches intersect are initially secured using biodegradable plant tape, soft twine made from natural fibres, or even flexible strips of natural materials like jute or flax. The key is not to bind them too tightly, allowing for natural growth.
Fusion (Occlusion): Over time, as the plants increase in diameter, the interwoven branches will actually grow together and fuse (a process called occlusion) at the points of contact. This creates a strong, living bond.
Interconnected Network: Once fused, the individual plants essentially become part of a larger, interconnected organism. This network of living tissue allows for continuous sap flow. If one stem is damaged or even cut near the ground (below the lowest fusion point), it’s less likely to die off completely because it continues to receive nourishment from the rest of the living network. This is a significant advantage over traditional hedges where the demise of a single plant can leave a permanent gap.
Selecting Your WA Plant Palette: Matching Species to Your Needs
This is where we get to celebrate the incredible diversity of our Western Australian flora and choose species that will thrive in your specific conditions and fulfill your desired function for the living fence. When making your selections, keep these factors in mind:
Local Climate and Soil Type: What are the typical temperature ranges, rainfall patterns, and soil composition in your area? Choose plants that are naturally adapted to these conditions.
Growth Rate: How quickly do you need the fence to establish and provide the desired level of screening or protection? Some native species are rapid growers, while others are slower but potentially longer-lived.
Mature Size and Form: Consider the ultimate height and width of the plants you choose. Do they have a naturally bushy, upright, or spreading growth habit? This will influence your planting density and weaving technique.
Branching Characteristics: Species with flexible, reasonably long branches are ideal for the weaving process.
Hardiness and Longevity: You want resilient plants that will thrive for many years with minimal intervention.
Maintenance Requirements: Some native species require more pruning than others to maintain shape and density. Consider your available time and effort.
Desired Function: Are you primarily aiming for privacy, wind protection, a barrier for livestock, erosion control, or a combination of these? This will be a key determinant in your species selection.
Aesthetic Preferences: Do you want a flowering hedge, interesting foliage textures or colours, or a particular overall appearance?
Wildlife Attraction (or Deterrence): Some native plants are magnets for birds and beneficial insects, while others (like thorny species) can deter unwanted animals. Always prioritise local, non-invasive species to support native ecosystems.
Here are some Western Australian native species that hold great potential for creating living fences, categorised by their suitability for different applications:
For General Purpose Fences and Privacy Screens:
Allocasuarina obesa (Swamp Sheoak): Fast-growing and adaptable to a wide range of soils, including slightly saline and waterlogged conditions. Its fine, drooping foliage creates a dense, attractive screen.
Acacia iteaphylla (Flinders Range Wattle): A bushy, medium-sized wattle with attractive weeping foliage. Relatively fast-growing and hardy.
Leptospermum laevigatum (Coastal Tea Tree) (coastal areas): A fast-growing, hardy shrub that forms a dense screen, particularly well-suited to coastal environments. Be mindful of its potential to spread aggressively in some inland areas.
Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary): A very hardy, drought-tolerant shrub with dense, grey-green foliage that can be easily shaped into a formal or informal hedge.
Philotheca spicata (Pepper and Salt): A medium-sized shrub with attractive, aromatic foliage and delicate white flowers. Relatively dense and responds well to pruning.
For Robust Windbreaks:
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Allocasuarina cunninghamiana (River Sheoak): A taller, fast-growing sheoak that forms a substantial and effective windbreak. Adaptable to various soil types.
Eucalyptus camaldulensis (River Red Gum) (larger properties): While a large tree, it can be managed with coppicing to create a dense, multi-stemmed windbreak, particularly in inland areas. Requires ample space.
Acacia saligna (Golden Wreath Wattle): A fast-growing, spreading wattle that can quickly establish as a windbreak, especially in drier areas. Can be prone to suckering in some conditions.
Hakea multilineata (Grass-leaved Hakea): A taller hakea with dense, linear foliage that can provide good wind filtration. Attractive pink flowers are a bonus.
When planting for a windbreak, consider planting in staggered rows to maximise wind diffusion. Interweaving the upper branches will add structural strength.
Creating Thorny, Animal-Deterrent Fences:
Acacia pulchella (Prickly Moses): As its name suggests, this low-growing wattle is incredibly prickly, forming a dense, impenetrable barrier ideal for deterring cats, dogs, and other small animals.
Hakea prostrata (Harsh Hakea): A spreading shrub with rigid, sharply pointed leaves that create an effective deterrent.
Certain Grevillea species (research local prickly varieties): Some grevilleas have stiff, prickly foliage that can act as a barrier.
For animal-deterrent fences, focus on creating a dense, low-level barrier with tightly interwoven branches.
Living Fences for Erosion Control:
Baumea articulata (Jointed Rush): A rhizomatous rush that forms dense clumps, excellent for stabilising soil along waterways and in damp areas.
Scaevola crassifolia (Thick-leaved Fanflower): A spreading coastal shrub with fleshy leaves and purple fan flowers. Its spreading root system helps bind sandy soils.
Prostrate or low-spreading forms of Acacia and Hakea: Their spreading root systems and low growth habit can help stabilise slopes.
For erosion control, plant densely along the contour of the land, focusing on establishing a strong root network.
Living Screens for Urban Spaces:
Dwarf or compact cultivars of the species listed above: Many native plants have smaller, more manageable forms perfect for urban gardens.
Grevillea 'Little Robyn': A compact grevillea with dense foliage and bright red flowers, attracting nectar-feeding birds.
Callistemon 'Little John': A dwarf bottlebrush with dense foliage and vibrant red bottlebrush flowers.
For urban screens, closer planting (20-30 cm) and regular pruning are key to maintaining a dense, attractive barrier.
The Art of Growing Together: Planting and Interlacing Your Living Fence
Now, let’s get practical with the steps involved in creating your living fence:
1. Site Preparation:
Clear the area thoroughly, removing all weeds, grass, and debris.
Consider the mature width of your chosen species when marking your planting line.
Improve the soil structure and fertility by incorporating compost and other organic matter. Most WA natives prefer well-drained soil.
2. Planting Distances:
As a general guideline, for a dense, interwoven fence of shrubs up to 1.5m tall, aim for planting distances of 20-50 cm.
For taller windbreaks using larger trees, you can start with wider spacing (50-100 cm) to allow for initial establishment, with the intention of interlacing branches as they mature.
For low-growing screens or animal deterrents, closer planting (15-30 cm) can create a more immediate dense barrier.
3. Plant Selection and Height:
Choose healthy, well-established young plants of a relatively uniform height and thickness. This will make the initial weaving process easier and result in a more even fence.
For a fence intended to reach 1.2-1.8m, starting with plants around 1-1.5m tall is a good benchmark, adjusting based on the species' growth rate.
4. The Interlacing Technique:
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Timing: Begin interlacing when the young plants have established well (usually after a full growing season) and have flexible, pliable branches that are easy to manipulate without snapping. Avoid interlacing during extreme weather conditions (very hot or frosty).
Method: Gently bend and weave the branches of adjacent plants together, aiming for multiple points of contact where branches cross.
Securing: Use biodegradable plant tape, soft natural twine, or flexible natural strips to secure these intersection points. Tie loosely to allow for stem thickening. The goal is simply to hold the branches in contact until they naturally fuse.
Progression: Start with the lower branches and gradually work your way up as the plants grow taller. You may need to revisit and add more weaving and securing over several growing seasons.
Patience is Key: Remember that this is a long-term project. It takes time for the plants to grow and fuse.
5. Shaping and Pruning:
Allow the main stems to grow upwards to your desired height. Once reached, you can begin lightly topping them to encourage bushier lateral growth.
Encourage lower branching for a dense base by leaving lower lateral shoots relatively untouched initially. You can gently train these outwards and even weave them into the lower sections of the fence.
Regular, light pruning is essential for maintaining the shape, density, and overall health of your living fence. For flowering species, prune after flowering. Avoid harsh, straight-line trimming, opting instead for selective pruning of individual branches to maintain a more natural, dense form.
6. Revitalising Old Hedges and Repairing Damage:
If you have an existing overgrown native hedge, you might be able to rejuvenate it by cutting it back hard after flowering (if applicable) and training the vigorous new shoots to interweave and form a living fence structure. This works particularly well with resilient species.
For damaged sections of a living fence, cleanly prune back the damaged parts and train the new shoots that emerge. If there are significant gaps, plant new saplings alongside the existing fence and weave them in as they grow.
Living Fences for Diverse WA Landscapes:
The versatility of this technique allows for a wide range of applications across our diverse Western Australian landscapes:
Defining Property Boundaries: Create beautiful, living boundaries in both rural and urban settings using dense, shapely native shrubs.
Creating Effective Windbreaks: Utilise taller, wind-tolerant native trees in single or staggered rows, interlacing the upper branches to buffer strong winds.
Establishing Privacy Screens in Urban Gardens: Employ compact, fast-growing native shrubs to create lush, private green spaces.
Fencing Pastures Naturally: Use hardy, less palatable native species, potentially with thorny characteristics, planted and interwoven to create a stock-proof barrier.
Stabilising Riverbanks and Preventing Erosion: Plant native species with strong, spreading root systems along waterways and slopes, weaving the stems to reinforce the soil.
Green Solutions for Road and Railway Embankments: Living fences can provide a sustainable and aesthetically pleasing way to stabilise embankments.
Contributing to Fire-Wise Landscaping: Choose less flammable native species with minimal dry undergrowth to potentially slow the spread of low-intensity fires. Avoid species that retain large amounts of dry foliage.
Enhancing Biodiversity and Creating Wildlife Corridors: Design living fences using a variety of native species to provide food and shelter for local wildlife, and to connect fragmented habitats.
The Enduring Benefits: A Living Legacy
Embracing the concept of living fences is an investment in the long-term health, beauty, and ecological integrity of your Western Australian landscape. It’s a move away from static, manufactured barriers towards dynamic, living structures that offer a multitude of benefits, from enhanced privacy and wind protection to increased biodiversity and soil stability.
By thoughtfully selecting our remarkable native plant species and applying the simple yet effective techniques of planting, weaving, and training, we can create boundaries that are not only functional but also vibrant, thriving ecosystems in their own right. It requires a touch of patience and a connection to the natural rhythms of growth, but the rewards of a well-established living fence: the beauty, the ecological benefits, and the sense of contributing to a greener future are truly enduring.
Join The Resilience Village:
Inspired to create your own living fence in WA? Have questions about the best native species for your area? Want to share your progress and learn from others? Join The Resilience Village online community! It’s a supportive space for real people learning real skills for a more resilient life. Click here to get started, it’s free.
About the Author
Susanne Peet is passionate about living with resilience and loves sharing her knowledge with others. She believes that everyone can make a difference in the world, no matter how small. Susanne is the founder of Eight Acres Permaculture, The Resilience Village and WILD Ones Forest School, which all focus on resilient living education for all ages. Susanne offers a variety of workshops and courses on topics such as permaculture, growing your own food, and homesteading and home school / wild school skills.
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